From Wendy Ramsburg (with additional comments by me):
http://web.archive.org/web/20040924142803/http://www.geocities.com/womansoldier/guidelines1.html
With more and more women entering the Civil War re-enactment
community as soldiers: some with very good impressions and some with
terrible impressions, it seems logical to have a set of standards to
follow. This would help both the sponsors of the event(s) and
the women who wish to portray soldiers to have certain common ideas
in mind as to authenticity and what should be expected of any given
individual. It is with the idea of common goals and
defining what exactly is desired of those women who portray soldiers
that this is written.
Uniform
A) Basic Uniform: Same as men's, including accouterments and
brogans. The vest, jacket, and trousers should be one size
larger than normal to hide obvious female characteristics. (**Shelby here: You don't want your clothing to be too big either, or that will draw attention to yourself. There is an account of an actual woman soldier getting discovered because of this.)
(**Use a roller buckle belt instead of braces (suspenders) unless you enjoy challenging yourself when you go to the bathroom.)
(**If you decide you enjoy reenacting, want to stay in the hobby, and desire to have a higher-end impression, you're going to need to buy higher-end stuff. If you decide to go this route, don't buy sutler-row items. Research before you buy. Be warned that it is expensive, and it will take a while to acquire the pieces.)
(**Use a roller buckle belt instead of braces (suspenders) unless you enjoy challenging yourself when you go to the bathroom.)
(**If you decide you enjoy reenacting, want to stay in the hobby, and desire to have a higher-end impression, you're going to need to buy higher-end stuff. If you decide to go this route, don't buy sutler-row items. Research before you buy. Be warned that it is expensive, and it will take a while to acquire the pieces.)
B) Binder: An absolute must unless you are completely flat
chested. Sports brassieres do not give the kind of support or
effect that is desirable. One can still detect
"unmanly" chest movement and those type brassieres don't
really protect you from pain or your fellow soldiers from possible
embarrassment. Imagine that you are in a tactical and a branch snaps
you across the chest. Will a "Sports Brassiere" protect the
tender areas? The answer is no. Now imagine that you take
a "hit" face up and the hospital corps comes to check for a
heart beat. Will that Sports Brassiere keep them from finding
out your true gender and save both the corps soldiers and yourself
from embarrassment? Again, the answer is no.
The importance of a good binder
a. Protects you and your comrades from embarrassment.
b. Keeps your gender a secret.
c. Protects other soldiers from embarrassment
d. It is authentic. Original women soldiers wore binders.
b. Keeps your gender a secret.
c. Protects other soldiers from embarrassment
d. It is authentic. Original women soldiers wore binders.
Binder pattern
Read instructions carefully!
Materials: Plain Cotton, Muslin, *Linen or sheeting
material , (amount described in instructions) Shoulder strap
material, (any material that is either strong enough on its own not
to break under stress, or that can be doubled without too much bulk
and will hold up under stress - amount described in instructions)
Hooks and Eyes, Bra extenders preferably with a double set of
eyes, (3-4, depending on how wide they are, the wider and more hooks
and eyes they have, the less fuss when changing the garment) Two
brassiere guides or belt slides, (like on the backs of vests) Thread.
Measuring for amount of material:
1.) One piece 21" wide x chest at breast attachment +
1" See Instructions 2 - 3.
2.) Measure chest at base of breast attachment
2.) Measure chest at base of breast attachment
3.) Add 2" to total, this gives you the total length of material
you will need.
4.) Fold material in half width-wise so that you have 10-1/2" x
breast attachment.
5.) Using 1/2' seam, sew material together at two raw edges, turn
inside out, fold remaining raw edge inside itself and topstitch a seam.
6.) Using bra extenders as a guide, mark eye locations on edge of
what you want to be the left side. Insert the hub of the eyes into
the seam area and hand stitch using heavy thread.
7.) On right side, measure in 3-1/2" from edge and mark a line
from top to bottom. This line is your marker for the
hooks. Fold about 1/2' of material from the main body of the
binder over and back on itself (both thicknesses) so that your line
falls just where the bases of the hooks attach.
8.) Using bra extenders as a guide, mark hook locations. Insert
the hub of the hooks into the hook line and hand stitch using heavy
thread. Keeping the area folded as above, sew a seam down and through
each of the hook hubs.
*** The 3-1/2' flap protects the back from hook gouging!
9.) Measure shoulder strap from regular brassiere. Use this
measurement for binder shoulder straps, adding 2' to each strap. Cut
the 2' extra from each strap and use to loop guides or belt slides to
front (X ) on diagram. Fasten remaining lengths at back (Y)
Leave a one-inch space between the hooks seam and the right
back. Leave an eight-inch gap between all back and front
straps. Leave a five inch gap from the left (eyes) edge and the
left back strap.
10.) Hook bra extenders to one side (obviously, it doesn't matter
which side!). When you are ready to put the garment on, you
just have to hook one side.
** OPTIONAL 11.) You may want to cut out a semi-circle from
the binder just below the underarm to reduce pinching. Just cut
the necessary area, turn the raw edges to the inside, and top stitch.
C) Hair: Cut short, or in such a way that the short back
underlengths of hair [preferably emulating the bottom parts of a man's
hair cut] may be let down
while longer upper lengths are pulled well up. Longer hair
should be kept hidden during hours when camp is open to the public
and during battle.
Any other circumstances should be discussed with your unit commander.
(I.e. dances, that is if you are permitted to change gender for such occasions)
This does not apply in emergency situations such as heat related problems when you need to get as cool as possible.
Any other circumstances should be discussed with your unit commander.
(I.e. dances, that is if you are permitted to change gender for such occasions)
This does not apply in emergency situations such as heat related problems when you need to get as cool as possible.
***Shelby here: This is where Wendy and I diverge. Wendy is probably the only person who can get away with tucking her hair under her hat. My stance is that if you want to reach the upper echelons of reenacting as a woman soldier, CUT YOUR HAIR SHORT. Why?? Because they did it. Plain and simple.
Additionally, you want to take on male mannerisms and follow male etiquette for the time, which includes removing your hat at certain times, such as when entering a building. If you have your hair tucked under your hat, it will look silly when you take it off. Even if you don't take your hat off, people can still tell that you have long hair. I see women use super big floppy slouch hats to try to hide it, which is also a bad idea. First, they draw attention because the ones I see women wearing are typically poorly made. Plus, men don't wear oversized slouch hats. Furthermore, you can still see wisps of hair sticking out. And for the ones who tuck their hair into forage caps or kepis, it looks even worse because it causes the hat to stick up. You're not fooling anybody.
If you decide to take your impression to a higher level and want to cut your hair, examine period photographs of male soldiers and note their hair styles. That is what you want to try to emulate.
Additionally, you want to take on male mannerisms and follow male etiquette for the time, which includes removing your hat at certain times, such as when entering a building. If you have your hair tucked under your hat, it will look silly when you take it off. Even if you don't take your hat off, people can still tell that you have long hair. I see women use super big floppy slouch hats to try to hide it, which is also a bad idea. First, they draw attention because the ones I see women wearing are typically poorly made. Plus, men don't wear oversized slouch hats. Furthermore, you can still see wisps of hair sticking out. And for the ones who tuck their hair into forage caps or kepis, it looks even worse because it causes the hat to stick up. You're not fooling anybody.
If you decide to take your impression to a higher level and want to cut your hair, examine period photographs of male soldiers and note their hair styles. That is what you want to try to emulate.
To read more about women soldiers and hair, click on the link below for an article I wrote:
I also do not believe in changing impressions. If you go to an event as a soldier, you need to stay a soldier the entire weekend if you want to be taken seriously. No changing into a dress for the dance, etc. But again, this depends on what level of reenacting you wish to experience.
Continuing with the article....
D) Headgear: Forage and Bummer caps are greatly preferred over
"slouch" hats and Kepis. "Slouch" hats have wide
brims and tend to "frame" the face,causing female traits to be
emphasized. Kepis should be avoided, especially if one
decides to wear longer hair, pulled up. Kepis just aren't long
enough in the back to hide the pulled up appearance. (***Shelby: Or just cut your hair short. Yes, this is a pet peeve of mine.)
E) Vest: One size larger than normal. Should be worn
anytime that a jacket is not being worn. Not only for
authenticity sake, (technically the men should also be wearing them)
but to help hide any female features. The only time a vest
or jacket should not be worn is in case of heat emergency or in the
privacy of your own tent. (**Shelby here: if you wish to try campaigning, you won't be using a tent unless it's a small dog tent. This means there will be little to no privacy.)
F) Dresses: Permitted at the discretion of your unit commander
and depending on circumstance. (Dances, Dinners, Special
Occasions) Unless specific instructions are given by the host of that
event that being in uniform at all times is an absolute requirement. (***Shelby again: to me, this is a no-no. Don't change impressions, even if your commanding officer gives you permission.)
G)Conduct:
1) Guard
duty, Picket duty, Drill, Camp chores, Parades: NEVER REFUSE to
do your duty or detail as a soldier without very good reason AND
permission from your commanding officer. Being a female DOES
NOT excuse you from any of the tasks performed by your fellow
soldiers. By performing the same work, duty, and drills as your
male counterparts, you gain their respect. Failure to do your
part can result in being pointed out as a poor example of a female
soldier and can make it harder for the next woman who wants to
portray a soldier.
Remember! You are setting the
standard. Poor examples are more easily discovered than good ones!
2) Discretion:
While in the field or in camp, you may face situations that require
mature handling. PLEASE use your head and think before you say
or do anything that may embarrass your comrades or yourself If you
find yourself, for example, in lines of men who need to give in to
"the call of nature", Don't make a big deal about
it! Either turn your head, close your eyes, or ask someone from
your own unit to let you know when it is "safe". Most
of those soldiers out there don't know that you are a woman and are
only thinking of one thing. RELIEF!! Respect their
privacy and you will be respected.
Another situation that may arise may be that, while you are wearing your proper binder and decide to take a "hit", someone may come to check you for a heart beat. They also do not know your true gender. If you are "dead" - stay dead. Don't make a fuss about checking your chest unless some surgeon unknowingly chooses you for an unscripted chest wound scenario. In that case, quietly let him know why he can't use you!
Another situation that may arise may be that, while you are wearing your proper binder and decide to take a "hit", someone may come to check you for a heart beat. They also do not know your true gender. If you are "dead" - stay dead. Don't make a fuss about checking your chest unless some surgeon unknowingly chooses you for an unscripted chest wound scenario. In that case, quietly let him know why he can't use you!
For The Men
Should you ever feel the need to "heed the call of nature",
especially out on the lines; please don't feel embarrassed if you
find out that a female is or was present. We are not there to
be an embarrassment. We are there, just as you are: to re-enact
a segment of history that we too are a part of. There were
indeed women who fielded as soldiers during the American Civil War,
and they have earned the same right to be represented as any other
soldier does. (In the proper manner, which includes maturity in any
given circumstance)
Another important matter is: Please don't be
so quick to remove the cap from your neighbors head when
"taps" is being played, you may end up with a shock when
that guy you've just been wrestling with in hand - to - hand combat
turns out to be - - a gal!! (You could remind the soldier that
"taps" is being played - most women soldiers can come up
with some type of period excuse - head wound, cold, etc. - a man will
usually take the hint and remove his cap) (**Shelby here: it is my understanding that military personnel offer a salute rather than removing hats during taps. On the other hand, civilians with caps do remove them. As for a female soldier removing her hat in any other situation, an easy solution to this is to just cut your hair. Get the picture yet?)
DISGUISE HINTS
1) Fake mustaches, beards, and wigs: Any of these are
acceptable if they are not too "fakey". Keep in mind
though that it can get very hot and most of the heat in a human body
collects at the head. Wigs are not recommended
(especially for infantry) since you will be wearing headgear (Kepi's
or bummer caps) and it will make you twice as hot and twice as likely
to go down from heat. Finding a good adhesive for mustaches and
beards can be difficult since you need one that is both waterproof
and sweat proof. The closest thing available is the liquid
eyelash adhesive (for individual lashes). Even Spirit Gum (used
by professional actors) is not waterproof. (They get to yell
"cut" and have things replaced in the middle of a shot; we don't!!)
2) Camouflage Paint: Don't rely on regular make-up to darken
your skin, you'll sweat it right off. Camouflage paint is oil
based, readily available in most stores with sporting goods, and is inexpensive. (**Shelby here: I wouldn't do this. Just use dirt if you have to use anything at all.)
3) Voice: One of the most difficult things to
disguise. Try to keep your voice tone low and deep. If
that is impossible, try not to speak too often when you do find it
necessary to speak. (NCO's) : Yelling orders in battle doesn't
count because everyone else is yelling and their voices are cracking too!) (**Shelby here: The best bet is to try not to speak at all. If you have to, just speak softly. Don't lower your tone because it sounds fake.)
(**Women naturally have smaller hands. Keep them in your pockets as much as possible in order to hide them. Avoid gesturing when you speak. That's a feminine trait.)
(**Women naturally have smaller hands. Keep them in your pockets as much as possible in order to hide them. Avoid gesturing when you speak. That's a feminine trait.)
4) EXERCISE !!: Strange as this may seem, you will be
marching, (for cavalry: riding) sometimes for miles, over various
terrain and weather conditions; and that you will be carrying a 10 -
12 pound rifle, accouterments, food, water, and wearing a wool
uniform and brogans. Lifting weights,walking, hiking, doing
upper and lower body exercises and doing back strengthening exercises
can help you endure the parades, marches, drills, tacticals, and
battles without "wimping out".
5) Study, study, study: Study your history, study the way that men
walk, stand, sit and move and try to copy them. Learn about the
women who did fight as soldiers so that you can talk with assurance
about the fact that they did fight. Find a name and a
background for yourself as a soldier (real or otherwise) and
encourage your fellow soldiers to use it whenever you are in uniform. (Yes, PLEASE read and study!!)
Other Important Notes
Some of the anachronisms most often brought to my attention when
women are on the battlefield, and often noticed by my fellow
soldiers, are things that common sense should say DON'T belong there.
Yet, as often as these mistakes occur, it seems that common sense
doesn't apply.
ABSOLUTE NO NO's
for female soldiers:
No "normal" female make-up including:
eye shadow
blush
rouge
eye liner
lip stick
blush
rouge
eye liner
lip stick
No recognizable female jewelry including:
earrings
bracelets
wrist watches
modern rings
necklaces
modern eyeglasses
bracelets
wrist watches
modern rings
necklaces
modern eyeglasses
NO LONG NAILS
NO PAINTED NAILS
NO PAINTED NAILS
Let's face it. If you want to get out and "play" with
"the boys", you should look and act like one of
"the boys". Save the "female stuff"
for when it appropriate --- and the battlefield is definitely NOT appropriate.
Click on the link below to read another great article with tips on reenacting as a woman soldier:
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